How do you look after a Lasius Flavus (Yellow Meadow Ant Farm at home)?
- Pat & Best Ants UK Team
- Apr 20, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Jan 25
How to look after a Lasius Flavus (Yellow Meadow Ant Farm at home)?
This is one of the best ant species for beginners and is easy to keep.
Start your ant-keeping journey with genuine knowledge about Lasius Flavus to experience the wonders of these fascinating creatures that lived on our planet millions of years before us.
The Lasius Flavus, also known as the Yellow Meadow Ant are small, yellow-brown ant that is generally docile and won't sting or bite. They prefer to nest in soil or under rocks and are known for their hardworking nature. Lasius Flavus colonies can grow to over 35,000 workers if the colony has multiple queens and are a great choice for those looking to start their ant-keeping journey.
Lasius flavus queen ant's lifespan is up to 20 years (usually about 15 years). This queen ant will ensure the longevity of your colony. As the sole reproducer in the colony, she will lay lots of eggs daily and provide a steady stream of workers. These workers will live up to 9 months and aid in the growth and success of your colony. Lasius Flavus and Lasius Niger are very close cousins.
Did you know that Lasius Flavus ants, similar to Lasius Niger, can live without food and water for a very long time, let me say about a month during the active period and for up to 5 months during the winter, also known as a hibernation period. So, considering the aforementioned first, let me add another fascinating fact: even with no food or water supplies for a fortnight and a well-moisturised habitat, the Yellow Meadow Ant colony will survive during the summer!
On the opposite, if you disturb your queen ant, if you put her under stress lifting your setup lid a few times a day to check if everything is going well or if you put your ant setup near your TV or stereo so all that vibration will hit into the nest area etc., all that will lead to a tragic end of your first ant experience.
Why is that?
Imagine living quietly in your house, in a dark room because the light makes you scared, and suddenly a giant lifts up the roof above your head a few times every single day and on top of all, a bright light blinds you at the same time. Apart from this, the nasty giant screams and makes strange noises now and then, sometimes so loud that the whole house shakes, for the ants, it is the same as an earthquake affecting a person's house. How long are you going to last? I will leave the answer to you.
You should leave your little friends alone. Check them once a week for a minute or two in the evening when the light coming from the night lamp is softer, and be as gentle as possible.
Development: For a Lasius flavus ant, the journey from egg to worker is an exciting process that usually takes around 6-8 weeks, influenced by the temperature conditions.
The eggs hatch in about 22 to 30 days into larvae.
Within a further 30-35 days, these larvae turn into adult ants.
The queen diligently lays eggs, which transform into larvae and then pupate before finally emerging as adult worker ants! This incredible cycle can be affected by the colony's environment and the availability of food, making each development unique and fascinating!
Feeding your ants.
You should feed them protein-rich food and sweets twice a week. For instance, feed your ants live insects or protein jelly every Monday and Friday. Give them sweets, organic honey or fruit (half a grape, a similar amount of a banana, etc.) on Wednesday and Saturday. How much? Well, for a small colony with a queen ant and about fifty workers, the amount of the protein jelly must be similar to the size of a single rice grain.
Regarding the live food, feed them mealworms, locusts, crickets or similar and do not forget to kill any possible microbes or mites the live food might be contaminated with. How? Just put it in boiling water for ten to fifteen seconds, then chop it in half and put it in the ants' outworld using a tiny piece of tinfoil as a tray. Use a small cotton ball to pour a drop or two of the honey to prevent ants from getting stuck and drowning. Now, the most important part is always to discard any remaining ant food after 1-2 days, or fungus may appear.
How to feed your ants Organic Honey and Protein Jelly? Video instructions? Click HERE!
You might be interested in this article as well: From Sugar to Insects: What Do Ants Eat
Once your colony is large enough, you can consider moving it into an ant farm. I would recommend the smallest possible ant farm. The A7-sized nest is the best option among our products, so you can get the A7 Ant Farm or the A7 PLUS if you'd like to monitor the temperature and humidity levels inside the nesting area.
Both ant habitats are designed to maintain air humidity of about 60-70% if your room temperature is 22 °C, pouring 1-1.5 ml of bottled (mineral or purified) water once a week ensures optimal conditions for your ant colony. With easy access to food and water in the outworld, your ants will be happy and healthy in their new home.
Maintaining the correct humidity in the nest area is essential. Lasius Flavus loves well-humid areas, so keep the moisture high, between 60 and 70 percent. Do not get confused by some Lasius Flavus care sheets, which state a moisture level, as it's different from the humidity levels.
Make sure the ant farm you have is suitable for live ants with a queen. Please do not make ants suffer! Find out more in this Ant Farm Guide: Ant Farm Kits Everything You Need to Know Before Making a Purchase
Escape Prevention.
If you do not want to deal with escaped ants, which is a common issue while you feed them, apply about an inch wide of our PTFE Fluon. It is a full-strength product and lasts for months, a non-stick material that creates an impenetrable barrier against crawling insects. The ants will not be able to crawl out due to the very slippery surface and will fall back into the outside world.
How to apply the PTFE Fluon Escape prevention. Video instructions? Click HERE!
The Hibernation of Lasius Flavus Yellow Meadow Ants
A few words about the hibernation. To remain healthy, your queen and worker ants require proper hibernation during the winter months, which is important for their survival. The Lasius Flavus hibernates through the winter and wakes up around late March/early April. To hibernate, the temperature of the nest needs to be reduced to around 10 degrees Celsius, which is not too cold for the ants to survive.
It is important to lower the temperature gradually, first when you put your ants in hibernation and afterwards when you take them out of hibernation. I recommend 0.2-0.3 degrees Celsius daily. The lower the better. If you decide to listen to some people and put your ant farm into your fridge, make sure the temperature is not below 8 degrees Celsius, so check it with an accurate thermometer first.
If you do not have the necessary skills or equipment to hibernate your ants, just do your best and move your ant farm to a colder room, like a garage or similar. Bear in mind that they will hibernate in any scenario, no matter the environmental temperature. They will become more clumsy and not so active during this winter period, so feed them with organic honey only once a month or so. Just make sure they have a freshwater supply all the time.
When to change the water station? Once it is finished or looks contaminated (cloudy, changes colour, etc.).
Avoid direct sunlight on the setup.
The sun can heat the nest by up to 5 degrees Celsius for only 5 minutes, so lots of toxins accumulate in the ants' bodies due to abrupt temperature changes. This can kill a worker ant for 1-3 days and a queen ant for 3-5 days if the sun does not boil the ants alive before that.
It is important to note that gel farms are not a suitable habitat for Lasius Falvus or Niger ants, as they can quickly become mouldy. To ensure the safety and well-being of these fascinating creatures, it is essential to provide them with a proper ant farm and diet.
In conclusion, after more than two decades in this business, we can admit that the most important part of successful ant-keeping is your patience, and I mean it.
Frequently Asked Questions:
1. How long do Yellow Meadow ant colonies typically live?
Answer: A Lasius Flavus colony with a healthy queen can live 15-20 years in captivity when properly cared for. The queen herself can live up to 20 years, while worker ants typically live 1-3 years. This makes them an excellent long-term pet when properly maintained.
2. Can I keep multiple Yellow Meadow ant queens in the same colony?
Answer: No, Lasius Flavus are monogynous, meaning they naturally have only one queen per colony. Placing multiple queens together will result in fighting until only one remains. If you have multiple queens, they should each be housed in separate ant farms.
3. Why are my Yellow Meadow ants not building tunnels?
Answer: There are several potential reasons:
The soil might be too compacted—try loosening it slightly
The moisture level may be incorrect—aim for slightly damp but not wet soil
The ants may need time to acclimate—give them 1-2 weeks to settle in
The colony might be too small—fewer than 15-20 workers may focus on queen care rather than tunnelling
Your farm might have too much light exposure—move to a slightly dimmer location
4. How do I know if my Yellow Meadow ant queen is healthy?
Answer: A healthy Lasius Flavus queen will:
Have a plump, shiny abdomen (gaster)
Move steadily but not frantically
Be attended to by worker ants
Produce eggs regularly during active seasons
Have clean antennae and limbs
Respond to gentle vibrations by moving (don’t disturb unnecessarily)
5. Can Yellow Meadow ants escape through air holes in my farm?
Answer: Yellow Meadow ants (Lasius Flavus) workers are approximately 2-3mm in size, so any hole larger than 1mm could potentially allow escape. To prevent this:
Use PTFE Fluon as recommended in our main guide to create a non-stick barrier
Ensure air holes are smaller than 1mm or covered with fine mesh
Double-check that all farm components fit together snugly without gaps
If using homemade setups, apply petroleum jelly around the top rim as a temporary barrier
6. Do Yellow Meadow ants need direct access to water?
Answer: No, Yellow Meadow ants should not have direct access to liquid water, as they can drown easily. Instead:
Provide moisture through damp cotton wool placed in a small container
Ensure proper humidity (60-70%) in the farm environment
Offer water-rich foods like fruit occasionally
Mist one corner of the farm lightly once per week if the humidity seems low
7. Why have my Yellow Meadow ants stopped taking protein food?
Answer: This is normal during certain periods. Yellow Meadow ants may reduce protein intake:
During the queen’s egg-laying pauses
In preparation for hibernation
When the colony has sufficient reserves
If the protein source is stale or unsuitable
Continue offering protein twice weekly as recommended, but remove uneaten portions after 24 hours to prevent mould.
8. Can I add wild-caught insects to feed my Yellow Meadow ants?
Answer: Yes, but with important precautions:
Only collect insects from areas free of pesticides and pollutants
Freeze insects for 24 hours before offering to kill potential parasites
Start with small insects like fruit flies or cut larger insects into pieces
Avoid ants from other colonies, which may cause territorial aggression
Never introduce non-native species which could escape and become invasive
9. How do I move my Yellow Meadow ant colony to a larger farm?
Answer: When upgrading to a larger farm:
Place both farms next to each other with a bridge (tube or stick) connecting them
Make the new farm more attractive by adding fresh soil and food
Keep the old farm dry while maintaining proper humidity in the new farm
Be patient—colonies may take 2-4 weeks to fully relocate
Once the queen and most workers have moved, carefully transfer the remaining brood
Maintain the connection for another week to allow stragglers to relocate
10. What should I do if I notice mould in my Yellow Meadow ant farm?
Answer: If you spot mould:
Remove any mouldy food immediately
If mould is on the soil surface, carefully scrape away the affected area
Reduce humidity slightly by decreasing misting
Ensure better air circulation around the farm
For extensive mould problems, you may need to prepare a new farm setup and transfer the colony
Prevention is key—remove uneaten food after 24 hours and maintain proper ventilation
