How to Care for Camponotus castaneus | The Chestnut Carpenter Ant Guide
Updated: 3 days ago
Photo: Timothy Lindsey, via iNaturalist, licensed under CC BY 4.0.
Glowing orange from head to tail, Camponotus castaneus is one of the most colourful carpenter ants of North America. The queen is big, calm and shiny, and her workers share her warm chestnut colours.
Chestnut carpenter ants are gentle, steady and lovely to watch. This guide explains Camponotus castaneus care step by step, from a founding queen in her test tube to a healthy colony in an ant farm.
We have kept ants since 1997, and the care rules here are the same ones we use for our own carpenter ant colonies every day.
👉 In a hurry? Download our free Camponotus castaneus care sheet (PDF) or open the Camponotus castaneus care sheet page for the key facts at a glance.
Camponotus castaneus at a Glance
Also known as: the chestnut carpenter ant, red hazelnut carpenter ant or reddish carpenter ant
Origin: the eastern and central United States, from Florida and Texas up to New York and Massachusetts
Keeping level: Beginner, with steady warmth and a good escape barrier
Queen: 16 to 18mm, chestnut head and a pale orange to yellowish body
Workers: 7 to 10mm, with big majors up to about 15mm, coloured like the queen
Colony: one queen, a slow start, then several hundred workers over the years
Nest temperature: 24 to 28°C
Nest humidity: 50 to 80%
Workers before moving into a nest: 3+ is a must, 5+ recommended
Winter: a 2 to 3 month rest at about 10°C, only in a hibernation unit with precise control
Escape risk: good climbers, so a PTFE barrier is a must
Meet the Chestnut Carpenter Ant
In the wild, Camponotus castaneus lives in woodland and deciduous forest. Unlike many carpenter ants, it mostly nests in the soil and under stones, and only now and then in rotten wood.
The workers often forage under stones and leaf litter. They come in a few sizes: smaller workers care for the brood (the eggs, larvae and pupae), while bigger, broad-headed workers carry heavy food and guard the nest.
New queens fly out on their mating flights in May and June, and again in September. After her flight, a queen pulls off her wings and seals herself away in a little chamber to raise her very first workers.
Colonies grow slowly at first, as with most carpenter ants. A queen can live for many years, and with patience the colony becomes a busy, glowing orange family.
Can You Keep Camponotus castaneus in the UK?
Camponotus castaneus is a North American ant, and Best Ants UK does not sell it. North American ants may be illegal or impossible to import into the UK, and we never encourage importing ants.
This guide is for keepers who already look after this species where it is native, and for anyone curious about it. Every care rule here works just as well for the carpenter ants you can keep legally in the UK.
When a New Colony Arrives
The most important step: leave the parcel completely unopened, exactly as it arrived, at room temperature for 5 hours. The ants must adjust to the temperature slowly, because abrupt temperature changes make ants seriously unwell.
After the 5 hours, check the queen is safe and sound. Then leave the colony in its original packaging, with the test tube still in its tin foil and wrapping.
Put it somewhere quiet and still, away from daily household activity. Normal daylight is fine, but never direct sunlight.
Give the colony 4 to 5 days of complete rest. The ants are fed before dispatch, so they need nothing from you. Use this time to set up and water the nest. 👉 Our step-by-step ant farm setup guide shows you exactly how.
Still workers or a motionless queen after delivery are almost always delivery stress. Look at the queen's antennae: moving antennae mean she is fine. Almost all recover within 4 to 5 days, and big queens can take a little longer.
Life in the Test Tube
Carpenter ant workers are big and capable from the start, so they don't need a huge colony before moving. Keep the ants in their test tube until there are at least 3 workers. That is a must. 5 or more workers is even better.
Don't worry if the queen's eggs have disappeared after delivery. Most carpenter ant queens eat their eggs in transit. This is normal for Camponotus, and only Camponotus. She lays again within 2 to 3 months of settling in.
A queen on her own still needs a little food. Once a week, give her a tiny drop of protein jelly, about half a grain of rice, on a small flat piece of tin foil inside the tube, next to the dry cotton stopper.
In our experience a fed queen raises her first workers faster, and the queen and colony do far better afterwards. Keep her tube wrapped in its foil and disturb her as little as possible.
A queen in a test tube needs warmth too. If your room is cool, use a heating cable at the cotton stopper end of the tube only. Never lay a test tube on a heat mat.
Moving Into the Ant Farm
When the colony is ready, connect the test tube to the nest with the delivery tin foil still on. Leave it like that for 14 days.
Then slide the foil back about 1mm every day, until the tube is fully exposed to daylight. Bit by bit, the tube becomes the bright spot and the dark nest becomes the safe home.
If the ants haven't moved 2 days after the tube is fully exposed, wrap the foil back on, wait another fortnight and repeat the whole process. Moving in happens on the ants' own time: anywhere from a couple of days to 6 months.
Once the colony has moved, leave the old test tube connected for at least another 14 days. Ants sometimes leave a little brood behind.
The red filter and black cover stay on the nest all the time, so it is pitch dark inside. You can lift the black cover once a day for 2 to 3 minutes, ideally at night, and take the red filter off once a week for 2 to 3 minutes. Take colony photos once a month at most.
The Best Ant Farm for Camponotus castaneus
Chestnut carpenter ants are strong climbers, so their home must be well made and escape-proof.
👉 Our Carpenter Ant Farm Starter Kit is made for carpenter ants, with a nest that has its own humidity and temperature meter, an outworld and a watering test tube.
Place the ant farm in normal daylight, never direct sunlight: the sun can overheat a nest within minutes. Avoid windows, radiators and heaters, vibrating surfaces, speakers and TVs, and rooms with strong smells such as the kitchen.
Temperature and Heating
Keep the nest at 24 to 28°C. Warmth keeps the queen laying and the brood growing, and a cool colony grows very slowly.
Most UK homes are cooler than that for much of the year. 👉 The Advanced Heating System Small 4W holds the nest steady with its digital thermostat. Set it to 24°C.
The heat mat goes under one quarter of the nest only, on the side opposite the watering area. The ants can then pick the spot they like best. Never heat the whole nest.
In the outworld, aim for about 18°C overnight up to 28°C by day. By day it should ideally match the nest or be a degree or two cooler. If the nest is heated, warm the outworld too, because a big gap confuses the ants.
Water and Humidity
Keep the nest humidity at 50 to 80%. Use distilled or purified water only. Never use tap water, rainwater or bottled mineral water, even boiled: they cause mould and fungus, which is deadly for ants.
Water the nest with the pipette provided. Pour slowly, a few drops at a time, through the watering hole. Stop as soon as 1 or 2 drops appear inside the nest. That is how you know it is done correctly.
Water about once a week, a little more in summer and a little less in winter. With a meter, simply water when the nest humidity drops below 50%.
Never water the outworld. Keep it dry, at about 50% humidity, like an average UK home. Carpenter ants should never have open water: give them a watering test tube in the outworld instead, never a water dispenser.
Feeding Your Chestnut Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants have a real sweet tooth, and a growing colony needs plenty of protein too. Feed twice a week, in small amounts, in the outworld only. Remove leftovers after 2 days to stop mould.
🍯 For energy, give our 👉 organic ant honey or 👉 Ant Nectar, which has even more carbohydrates than honey. Honey and Ant Nectar are far better than sugar water or home-made mixes.
🥩 For the queen and brood, 👉 Cricket Mash is the more efficient protein for carpenter ants. 👉 Protein Jelly works well too. Keep protein jelly in the fridge at all times.
Serve food on a small piece of tin foil or in a 👉 small feeding dish, so leftovers are easy to lift out. Now and then, a rice-grain-sized piece of peeled grape or banana makes a nice treat.
Live food, such as crickets or locusts, is only for big, established colonies, never small ones. Always scald it first: wearing gloves, hold it with tweezers in just-boiled water (above 90°C, no longer bubbling) for 10 to 15 seconds.
Then cut it in half only, and serve it in the outworld.
Keep Mites Out of Your Colony
Blood-sucking mites are one of the biggest dangers for any ant colony, and they are not rare. They often arrive with bird seed from local shops, dried mealworms (which are useless as ant food anyway), and live food from pet shops or online.
In our experience about half of all bought live food carries mites, so where you buy matters.
Buy ant food only from established, reputable ant-keeping suppliers. At Best Ants UK we clean our foods in several ways before dispatch, check every colony twice a month, and check each colony again before it leaves us.
Now and then, look at your queen with a magnifying glass. Tiny white or reddish specks on her joints and legs, together with ants dying fast, are a warning sign of blood-sucking mites.
Stopping Escapes
Chestnut carpenter ants climb well, so escape prevention is a must. Paint a band of 👉 PTFE Fluon escape barrier around the top inner edge of the outworld lid. The ants slip off it and can't climb out.
PTFE wears off as the ants keep testing the same spots. For a small colony of up to about 100 ants, reapply it roughly every 4 weeks. For 300 to 500 ants or more, reapply it about every 2 weeks.
Never shake the bottle, because it foams. Roll it gently in your hands instead.
Winter Care
Camponotus castaneus has a natural winter rest. Experienced keepers give it about 2 to 3 months at a steady 10°C, roughly December to February. That is only safe in a specialised hibernation unit with precise control, and we never hibernate a queen in her first year.
Without such a unit, keep the colony at room temperature, with the heater on if your home is cool. During a full hibernation, give fresh water only and no food.
Even so, growth often slows a little in the darker months, because the biological clock can't be tricked. Never put ants in a fridge, shed or garage, and avoid any abrupt temperature change.
If the colony slows down, feed a little less, but never guess. At 17 to 22°C, give about a third of the summer amount. At 22 to 26°C, give about half, still twice a week.
Can I Release My Ants?
No. A colony raised indoors won't survive outside, and a North American ant doesn't belong in the wild here. If you ever can't keep your colony any more, 👉 visit our ant adoption page and let us know. We'll see whether we can take it in.
Frequently Asked Questions | FAQ
Is Camponotus castaneus good for beginners?
Yes, for a patient beginner. The ants are calm and easy to feed, but the colony grows slowly at first and needs steady warmth and a good escape barrier.
Can I buy Camponotus castaneus in the UK?
Best Ants UK does not sell this species. It is a North American ant, and it may be illegal or impossible to import into the UK. We never encourage importing ants. Choose a species that is legally kept and sold in the UK instead.
How many workers does Camponotus castaneus need before moving into a nest?
At least 3 workers is a must, and 5 or more is recommended. Carpenter ant workers are big and capable from the start, so they settle into an ant farm sooner than smaller species.
What temperature do Camponotus castaneus need?
Keep the nest at 24 to 28°C. Most UK homes are cooler than that, so an Advanced Heating System set to 24°C under one quarter of the nest is needed for most of the year.
Do Camponotus castaneus hibernate?
A short winter rest suits them: 2 to 3 months at about 10°C, but only in a specialised hibernation unit with precise control, and never in the queen's first year. Without one, keep the colony warm at room temperature.
Why did my Camponotus castaneus queen eat her eggs?
Most carpenter ant queens eat their eggs during delivery. This is normal for Camponotus, and only Camponotus. Once she settles in, she lays again within 2 to 3 months.
Do chestnut carpenter ants sting?
No, they have no sting. The bigger workers can give a small nip with their jaws, and they can spray a little formic acid when disturbed. As with every ant, never handle them.
Ready to Start Your Own Carpenter Ant Colony?
Chestnut carpenter ants are not sold by Best Ants UK, but the same care brings our UK carpenter ant colonies to life.
👉 Start with the A7 Plus ant farm kit. Its pre-installed digital meter shows the nest temperature and humidity at a glance, and if you already have your ants, choose its Nest + Outworld option. 👉 Explore all our free ant care sheets.
