Start an Ant Farm at Home: Beginner's Guide to Success
- Pat & Best Ants UK Team
- 6 days ago
- 13 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Did you know that ant queens can survive for 10 years or maybe even longer? An ant farm at home gives you an amazing view into these incredible insects' social structures and behaviours.
Watching these industrious creatures up close makes ant keeping a rewarding hobby, and you'll need just £50-£100 to get started.
Lasius niger (the black garden ant) and Lasius flavus are native to the UK and are also the best species for newcomers to the antkeeping hobby.
Your ants will thrive when you focus on three key elements: environment, food, and water. These remarkable creatures build communities and work together just like humans do, but way more organised and, most importantly, without arguing half the time.
This piece will show you everything you need to create a successful ant farm at home. We'll help you pick the right starter kit and teach you proper nest moistening techniques. Just remember - less water works better than too much! You'll learn how to create the perfect home for your tiny new companions.
Let's take a closer look at ant keeping and help you start your first ant colony successfully!
Choose the Right Ants and Starter Kit
Your success as a beginner ant keeper depends on picking the right ant species and housing. The species you select shapes how fast your colony grows and what care they need.
Best ants for beginners (Lasius niger, Messor barbarus)
Lasius niger (Black Garden Ant) stands out as the perfect species for UK newcomers to ant keeping. These common black ants adapt easily to different environments and situations. Their gentle nature makes them safe for children and beginners because they don't sting or bite. Your colony can grow to more than 10,000 workers, and can live up to almost 30 years, which gives you plenty of fascinating activity to watch.
Messor barbarus (Harvester Ant) gives beginners a different yet rewarding experience. These ants, native to Southern Europe and North Africa, are known for collecting seeds. The sort of thing I love about them is their polymorphic trait—they develop workers of different sizes in the same colony. These colonies can reach impressive sizes between 5,000 and 15,000 members.
Lasius niger and Messor barbarus are both great starter ant species. Lasius niger works better for complete beginners aged under 10 because of its:
Manageable size
Simple dietary needs
Highly adaptable nature
Lower startup costs than Messor barbarus
If you can not decide what beginner ants you want, here is the solution: Messor barbarus vs Lasius niger: Which Makes the Best Ant Farm for Beginners?
What to look for in an ant farm starter kit
The size of your ant farm starter kit should match your available space and future plans. Smaller kits work great if you're just starting or have limited room. Your chosen ant species should also match the habitat—not every home suits every ant.
A good starter kit needs:
A formicarium (the nest area)
A foraging area for food and activity (aka outworld)
The right nesting material (sand-loam mixture for Lasius niger or plaster/ant sand substrate for Messor barbarus)
Simple feeding supplies
Basic setups cost between £49 and £69, while premium or custom options range from £65 to £179. Complete starter kits with Messor barbarus colonies run £76-£145. Lasius niger starter kits cost less at £62-£89.
All ant species do NOT survive in gel-based habitats; actually, all ants die in there. AVOID gel ant farms. Acrylic or glass formicaria work better because they're easier to clean and let you see your ants clearly, but your best possible shot is a hybrid ant nest - a PLA ant nest with natural substrate filling.
Do not waste time and money on cheap, rubbishy ant kits. Read this Ant Farm Guide first: Ant Farm Kits: Everything You Need to Know Before Making a Purchase
Where to buy ants in the UK for Ant Farm at Home
Several specialised retailers make it easy to find quality live ants in the UK. Buy live ants in the UK from trusted vendors who supply healthy colonies with fertile queens.
Best ant suppliers often offer ant bundle kits, everything you need to start, including the ants, all well discounted. Their support and care instructions help ensure your success.
Over the last several years, ant keeping has become more accessible. Monthly upkeep stays affordable at £1.50-£15 for food and supplies after your initial setup.
Prepare the Nesting and Foraging Areas
Your ant farm needs the right setup before the ants move in. This preparation creates a healthy environment where your colony will thrive. Let me show you how to get both the nesting area and foraging space ready for your tiny new residents.
Cleaning and drying the ant farm, if necessary
Most of the new ant farms, especially those coming from China, need a good cleaning to get rid of manufacturing residues or contaminants. If you have bought an Ant Farm from Best Ants UK, please skip this step as your new formicarium comes ready to be used straight away.
Here's what you should do for Chinese ant farms:
Wash both the nesting box and the foraging container with warm, soapy water
Rinse completely with fresh water to get rid of soap residue
Dry immediately with a kitchen towel or paper towels
Skip air-drying if you live in a hard water area - it leaves scale stains that block your view
A sterile environment starts with proper cleaning. Quick drying helps you avoid water stains that might block your colony's view later.
Adding soil and substrate
Your ant farm's foundation depends on the substrate you pick. Different layers serve unique purposes. If you have bought an Ant Farm from Best Ants UK, please follow this How-to Assemble Your Ant Farm Guide.
A quality substrate mix has:
Bottom layer: Clay granules about half an inch deep trap excess water and keep humidity steady
Main layer: Sand-loam mixture (40% ant sand and 60% loam soil) helps ants build tunnels and nest structure
Optional additions: Organic clay holds moisture while natural fibres help with air flow
Pack down the substrate gently. You can use a wooden spoon handle or tap the base lightly on a worktop. This makes the soil compact enough for ants to build stable tunnels.
Moistening the nest properly
The right moisture level makes or breaks an ant nest. Remember what ant experts say - less water works better than too much.
Here's how to add moisture:
Add small amounts of water (about 1-3ml) and let it soak in
Wait 30-40 minutes between additions to watch the moisture spread
Keep adding until the nest bottom looks slightly damp but not wet
Watch these signs of proper moisture:
Soil should look slightly damp without being soaked
Glass should stay clear of condensation
Soil shouldn't look dusty or crumble easily
A digital hygrometer helps track humidity levels accurately. The right humidity affects how eggs develop, keeps ants hydrated, and helps them communicate.
Setting up the foraging box
Ants need a separate foraging area to look for food and handle waste.
A good foraging area should:
Have a dry substrate at the bottom (light-colored for dark ants or dark for light ones) so you can spot them easily
Keep the substrate thin - just enough to cover the floor (around 1/2 inch / 10-20mm)
Have small feeding dishes for food and water
Include decoration like twigs, dry moss, leaves, or small stones as hiding spots that encourage natural foraging
The foraging box needs proper ventilation holes to keep the air fresh and stop mould growth. Keep this area dry - wet conditions might make ants build nests here instead of their designated space.
These preparation steps create perfect conditions for your colony. Your ants will settle in and thrive under your care.
Make the Ant Farm Escape-Proof
Your ant colony needs a secure home, and many beginners miss this crucial step. A single escaped queen can start a new colony in your house - definitely not what ant keepers want!
Using insect repellent barriers
Insect repellent liquids make great barriers around the inner lip of open foraging boxes. These deterrents create a scent or surface that ants naturally stay away from.
Here's how to apply an insect repellent barrier:
Dip a half-inch paint brush in the repellent
Paint a thin layer around the inner lip of the foraging tank
Keep the repellent about a centimetre from the top edge
Watch the video instructions carefully to avoid a headache:
Weather strips or sticky draft tape work well as physical barriers, too. Put these strips along the inner edge of the foraging box to stop excess repellent from dripping down the tank sides, or for best results, apply the PTFE Fluon by holding the outworld upside down before assembling the ant farm.
Applying PTFE or Fluon
PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) or Fluon® stands out as the best way to stop ants from escaping. Ants just can't grip this ultra-smooth surface.
Follow these steps to apply it right:
Clean the rim with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry
Use a foam brush to apply a thin, even 2-3 cm band
Let it dry completely (15-30 minutes)
PTFE needs special handling, though. Don't shake the solution - it won't work if you do. Just turn or roll the bottle gently to mix what's inside. Make sure you're in a well-ventilated space since the fumes are unpleasant until dry. This creates a surface too slippery to climb. Apply a thin, even layer across the top.
Some ant keepers mix talcum powder with rubbing alcohol (Talcum+Alcohol) as an alternative. We do not recommend it as the talk from some companies contains a small amount of calcium carbonate, which is dangerous, even deadly, for some ant species like Polyrhachis dives.
Checking and reapplying barriers
Barriers need regular upkeep since they wear down over time. Insect repellents need a fresh coat every 2-4 weeks; the more the moisture, the more often. PTFE lasts longer but needs touching up every 2-8 weeks.
Watch for these signs that show it's time to reapply:
Ants crossing the barrier
Visible wear or dust buildup
The barrier's scent is fading away
Check your entire formicarium for cracks or weak spots during maintenance. Excessive humidity and dust can make barriers less effective quickly, so adjust your maintenance schedule based on your home's conditions.
These escape-prevention methods will keep your ant colony secure and save you from chasing escapees around your house.
Add Food, Water, and Final Touches
To ensure the thriving of your ant farm, it is essential to provide adequate food and water. Once the habitat is established and secured against escapes, it is important to introduce resources that support the survival and growth of your small colony.
Safe ways to provide water
Your ants cannot survive without water - they need it more than food. Here are safe ways to give them water:
Test tube method: Fill a test tube with water, plug the opening with cotton wool, and place it in the foraging area. This lets ants drink safely without drowning.
Cotton ball system: Soak a cotton ball in water and place it in a small dish. Your ants can drink safely from this spot.
Moisture control: The nesting area should stay moderately moist based on your species' priorities, but avoid excess water that could destroy tunnels.
Your ants need water to digest food, control body temperature, and remove waste - these are vital for keeping the colony healthy.
Do not use water feeders for harvester and carpenter ants; they hate open water and will cover any water drop with substrate or dirt.
What to feed your ants
Your ants need a balanced mix of carbohydrates and proteins:
Carbohydrates (energy for workers):
Ant nectar
Ant Honey
Small pieces of fruit
Proteins (vital for larvae and queens):
Small insects like mealworms or fruit flies (pre-killed for smaller colonies)
Tiny pieces of cooked seafood, like crab or shrimp
Hard-boiled egg fragments
Protein jelly
Cricket mash
How often to feed and hydrate
Your colony will stay healthy if you:
Feed them once to three times weekly, adjusting portions based on colony size
Give protein at least twice weekly
Add carbohydrates once to twice weekly
Make sure fresh distilled (mineral) water is always available
A small colony typically needs one drop of Ant honey and Protein jelly or 3 fruit flies/baby cricket/mealworm every three days.
Tips for keeping the farm clean
A clean farm prevents disease and mould. You should:
Take out uneaten food after 24-48 hours
Change water sources if the water looks contaminated (change colour or looks cloudy)
Clean the water container monthly with warm water and put it in the microwave for 20 seconds afterwards.
Look for mould that shows too much moisture
Set up a waste area in the foraging box
The right mix of food, water, and cleanliness creates perfect conditions for your ant colony. These final steps complete your setup and make it ready for its new residents.
Find out what your ants love to eat: From Sugar to Insects: What Do Ants Eat
Introduce the Ants to Their New Home
Moving ants into their new ant farm is a vital transition that needs patience and proper technique. Let me share how you can make this process easier for your colony.
Letting ants move naturally
The most stress-free approach allows ants to move at their own pace. You should attach their test tube to the nest's designated entrance or place their test tube, or temporary container, directly into the foraging area with its opening toward the formicarium entrance. Worker ants will explore and gradually relocate the colony, including the queen and brood. This natural migration takes anywhere from hours to several months, depending on the species. Your patience here makes a difference since forced relocation can harm your colony.
Lasius N are the most stubborn ants in the world, so get comfortable, as it might take up to 6 months for them to move into the nest.
What to do if they won't move
Ants hesitate to relocate because moving a young colony puts them at risk in the wild. When your ants stay put, try making their current home less comfortable. You can reduce humidity in the old container while keeping optimal conditions in the new nest. A tube connecting both habitats creates a safe passage that encourages exploration. In case you try to move European fire ants, Myrmica rubra, you might face a real challenge, and will end up heating their test tube using either a heating mat or cable.
Using light or cold to encourage movement
Light manipulation works with most species, most successfully on harvester ants. You should keep the new nest area dark while shining a bright light on their current container. Never use the so-called "refrigeration method", recommended by some incompetent people, to slow ants' movement temporarily, as this will make them sick and eventually die within 3-5 days. Because of toxins built up in your ants due to
It is crucial to prevent sudden temperature fluctuations due to the accumulation of toxins.
Choose the Right Ant Farm for Birthday and Christmas
Choosing the perfect-sized setup for your first ant farm can be the key to a successful and exciting experience! We've guided over twenty-four thousand beginners in selecting their first ant farms, and here's what truly works wonders.
Every Christmas, we have been making lots of children happy with what Santa had squeezed through the chimney: The most desired Christmas Ant Farm Gift.
Our research illustrates the impact of optimal sizing on colony health, growth potential, and survival. Ideal environments are achieved through precise spatial calculations, consideration of species-specific requirements, and strategically planned expansion areas.
Achieving success in ant-keeping requires a thorough understanding of both the current and future needs of your colony. Colonies flourish when their environments align with their natural behaviours and growth patterns. Keepers who carefully monitor conditions and make timely adjustments to the habitats tend to achieve the most favourable outcomes.
Want to begin your ant-keeping experience? Visit Best Ants UK to find an ant farm gift that perfectly suits your needs. The secret to a thriving colony starts with the right space from day one. Your colony will flourish and offer years of captivating observations with appropriate sizing and attentive care.
Conclusion
Your first ant farm opens up an amazing window into the world of these tiny but complex creatures. This piece covers everything in starting your ant-keeping experience, from selecting beginner-friendly species like Lasius niger to building the perfect habitat with proper moisture levels and escape-proof barriers.
The lifeblood of successful ant keeping is patience.
Your colony needs time to adapt to its new environment, raise its new generations, and develop its social structure. Proper feeding schedules and hydration will substantially affect your colony's health and activity levels.
The original cost of an ant farm is nowhere near expensive, usually between £50 - £100, and upkeep costs stay low. This makes antkeeping available to curious minds of all ages.
These remarkable insects will give you countless hours of educational entertainment as you watch their incredible teamwork, problem-solving abilities, and complex social behaviours right before your eyes. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing your queen lay eggs and your colony grow from a few workers to potentially thousands. This hobby has so many rewarding moments.
Start small, keep learning, adapt when needed, and you'll soon be amazed by the miniature world you've created. Your ant farm experience is ready to begin—time to bring these amazing creatures home!
Key Takeaways
Starting an ant farm is an accessible and rewarding hobby that offers fascinating insights into complex insect societies. Here are the essential points for success:
• Choose beginner-friendly species: Lasius niger (black garden ants) are ideal for newcomers—they're resilient, docile, and cost-effective with starter kits ranging from £50 to £100.
• Proper moisture is critical: Use the "less is more" approach when moistening the nest—add water gradually (1-3ml at a time) as oversaturation can be dangerous.
• Create escape-proof barriers: Apply PTFE or fluon around the foraging area's rim and reapply every 2-8 weeks to prevent colony escapes.
• Provide balanced nutrition: Feed daily with carbohydrates (Ant honey or Ant nectar) for energy and proteins (protein jelly or small insects) 2-3 times weekly for growth and reproduction.
• Practice patience during introduction: Allow ants to move naturally into their new home; this process can take hours to months, but forced relocation causes stress.
With proper setup and consistent care, your ant colony can grow from a few workers to thousands, providing years of educational entertainment while requiring minimal ongoing maintenance costs of just £1.50-£15 monthly.
FAQs
Q1. What are the best ant species for beginners to start with?
For beginners, Lasius niger (Black Garden Ant) is an ideal choice. They are resilient, docile, and can adapt to various environments. Messor barbarus (Common Harvester Ant) is another good option, known for their interesting seed-collecting behaviour and polymorphic nature. Compared to the Black ant queen, the Messor queen is twice as big and way more interesting.
Q2. How much does it cost to start an ant farm?
The initial cost for starting an ant farm typically ranges from £50 to £150. This includes the cost of a starter kit with essential items. After setup, monthly maintenance costs are relatively low, usually between £1.50 and a maximum of £15 for food and supplies.
Q3. How do I properly moisten the ant nest?
It's crucial to moisten the nest carefully. Add small amounts of water (about 1-3ml at a time) and allow 30-60 minutes between additions to see how far the moisture spreads. The nest's substrate should appear slightly damp but not wet. Remember, it's better to use too little water rather than too much.
Q4. What should I feed my ants?
Ants require a balanced diet of carbohydrates and proteins. Offer sugar water or small pieces of fruit for carbohydrates, and small insects, tiny pieces of cooked seafood, or hard-boiled small egg bits for protein. Feed your colony according to their size and numbers, adjusting portions based on colony size, and provide protein at least twice weekly.
Q5. How do I introduce ants to their new home?
The best approach is to allow ants to move naturally. You should attach their test tube to the nest's designated entrance or place their test tube, or temporary container, directly into the foraging area with its opening toward the formicarium entrance. This gradual relocation can take anywhere from hours to several months. If they're reluctant to move, try making their current home less appealing by reducing humidity or using light manipulation to encourage movement.
